A Hawaiian Ghost Story
In 1982, my husband and I went to Hawaii for the first time. Relatively young, and relatively broke, we visited three islands–the Big Island, Maui, and Kauai–and camped everywhere we went. Maui enchanted us. After ten days at Big Beach in Makena, we decided to visit the rainy side of Maui. The car rental agency forbade taking their cars on the southern end of the Piilani Highway, warning that the roads were rough. But we wanted to see the whole island, and the road looked straightforward enough on the map–only a short section appeared to be dirt–and our guide book highly recommended a primitive campground right on the beach just south of Oheo Gulch, better known as the Seven Sacred Pools. The campground had no running water, but contained the ruins of an ancient Hawaiian village. Perfect.
Hours later, skirting the worst of the broken up asphalt chunks euphemistically representing the ‘road’ we saw on our map, we reached the ‘dirt’ section of the road. Soon we realized the dotted line on our trusty map was really more of a futuristic idea of where a road might go if anyone ever decided to build one. Deep ruts had been left by trucks whose wheel-span was considerably wider than ours. We crawled at five miles an hour. My neck became cricked from leaning to the right as our right tires thumped and shuddered through a rut while the left ones scrabbled frantically for purchase on the higher ground between gouges.
By the time we reached the campground, we were aggravated and exhausted, and it was pitch dark. So we didn’t notice until we walked right up to a heavy locked gate at the entrance that the campground was closed.
We knew that somewhere ahead of us lay the winding road to Hana–a road everyone described as being a nightmare one should never attempt to traverse at night.
We decided to sleep on the beach. It was foggy but calm. We left the tent in the trunk and laid our sleeping bags out on the sand. It felt incredibly good to lie down.
Then we heard it. The unmistakable sound of a small child sobbing somewhere in the jungle fronting the beach.
“There’s a lost kid in there!” I said. Elie and I looked at each other. We had seen no sign of any human habitation for miles.
We got up and walked to the edge of the woods, shining our flashlights into the vines and trees. “Come here, we’ll help you!” we called.
The only reply the sound of a terrified child, sobbing as if it’s heart would break.
Cautiously, Elie and I started to walk into the woods. Except it wasn’t really walking. The vegetation was so lush we were climbing over stumps, holding the trunk of one tree while slithering between it and its neighbor. The mud was ankle deep. We stalled, tangled in vines.
We shone our flashlights all around, weak stripes of light making the forest seem all the darker. “Come to us! We’ll take care of you!”
Nothing but weeping in response.
“We can’t go any deeper,” Elie said. “We’ll just get lost ourselves. We’ve got to go for help.”
Just then, the sound of the sobbing changed. It grew. Now there were five or six voices. Sobbing. Crying. Screaming. A whole family.
“Over here! Come on, we can help you,” we shouted.
The only response was the continuing cries of anguish.
“Maybe they don’t speak English,” I whispered.
A particularly shrill scream ripped through the woods, raising the hair on my neck. I looked over at Elie. The whites of his eyes gleamed in the mist. The unspoken question vibrated between us. What happened to these people? And…will it happen to us?
We scuttled backwards like crabs, thrashing our way through vines that tendrilled around us, purposeful and animate as snakes. We could see the pale sand through the trees when Elie grabbed my arm and squeezed hard.
Twenty voices now. Crying. Screaming. Sobbing.
A whimper tried to fight its way out of my throat.
Probably no one has ever run through dense jungle as quickly as we did. Once on the sand we kept backing until we reached our sleeping bags.
Fifty voices. Crying. Screaming. Sobbing.
“Maybe the locals–playing a practical joke?” Elie gasped weakly.
Sixty voices. Seventy five. A wild cacophony of misery.
Eighty-five voices. A hundred souls howling in mounting hysteria.
“A hundred people just hanging out in the woods in case some lost tourists stop by? We haven’t seen a house or a car in hours!” I protest.
Elie nods. “How far do you think it is to a police station?”
“I don’t know.”
The voices in the forest reached a fever pitch of agonized shrieks, subsided into moaning and incoherent pleading, built into screams again.
We sat on our sleeping bags. Actually, our knees were shaking so hard we simply collapsed.
“I can’t drive any farther,” Elie admitted. “Look, like you said–it can’t be real. A hundred people out in the middle of nowhere?” He got in his sleeping bag and put his hands over his ears. “It’s just the wind, honey. Just ignore it.”
Wet staccato gasps of women who have been screaming so long they have lost their breath. Men groaning in unbearable agony. Children shrieking as if they had been scalded.
The air is damp, heavy, overcast. The breeze so faint it cannot even stir the ends of my hair.
I pull a hand off of one of Elie’s ears. “There is no wind! Can the wind sound like this? There is no wind!”
He claps his hand back firmly over his ear. “It’s just the wind. Pay no attention. Just go to sleep.”
Miserably, I crawled into the sleeping bag beside him and put my hands over my ears. The sounds continued, barely muffled.
Neither of us slept.
Finally the sky began to lighten, the black slowly fading into gray.
A hundred voices became eighty. Seventy five voices became fifty.
We crawled out of our sleeping bags, trembling with stiffness and exhaustion.
The cries dwindled. Forty voices, then thirty. Crying, screaming, sobbing.
Then only the family. Half a dozen voices keening their anguish. Dwindling into silence as the pale disc of the sun rose into the mist.
We dragged our sleeping bags–and ourselves–back to the car, stuffed the bags in the trunk.
“Let’s eat breakfast somewhere else,” he said.
“Definitely,” I agree.
Elie frowns, looking over my shoulder, back towards the beach. I whirl around. And like him, see something we did not notice, as we arrived in the mist muffled dark the night before.
We walk over to the historical marker. I don’t remember what year the event had happened, or which two Hawaiian Chieftains had been battling. What I remember is the marker stating, in pitiless bronze, “On this site, an entire village consisting of approximately one hundred men, women and children was slaughtered.”
Wordlessly, Elie and I got in the car. A short while later we picked up a couple hitchhiking. They were white, but local. They had lived in Paia for a dozen years. We told them the story of our miserable night.
“Oh yeah,” the guy said casually. “People see night-walkers over there–whole platoons of ancient Hawaiian soldiers–patrolling up and down the beach.”
“And they hear stuff too,” the girl chimed in.
“Yeah, and people would feel icy cold spots on their way to the latrines–stuff like that. That’s why they closed the campground, man. The hauntings were just too intense.”
We pulled over and let the hitchhikers out at their destination, thanking them for the info. Then Elie and I stared at each other.
Neither of us believed in ghosts.
Sometimes something happens that throws your world-view into chaos, and you realize that what you thought was reality was just a theory—a hypotheses which no longer fits the new set of facts. You can cover your ears and close your eyes and try to ignore the new set of information, but this won’t work for long unless you are prepared to stay permanently stupid for life (sadly, many people are willing to do just that).
I had never believed in ghost stories or haunted houses until this event. I accepted that a beloved spirit might visit the people it cared for, in dreams or even in a vision state. I had experienced that myself. But spirits howling in misery, trapped between the worlds for eternity? Murdered souls unable to leave the house or forest in which they perished? That was unacceptable, unimaginable.
Trying to understand my Hawaiian experience, I cast my mind back to my first visit to Scotland. At one point I had cut diagonally through a large intersection in the city of Edinburgh to rejoin my mother and cousin. As I made my way through the broad cross roads, I was blasted with unbearable heat. I felt dizzy, sick, on the verge of passing out. I stumbled across the street and pressed my forehead against the gray stone wall of an old building. “What’s wrong?” my mother asked.
“I think I’m getting sick.”
But after only a few moments, the sensation of heat and dizziness subsided.
“I thought I was coming down with a fever, but it’s gone now,” I said, puzzled.
Right on the building where I had leaned my head, was a historical marker (what would we do without historical markers?) It stated that numerous accused Witches had been burned at the center of this town square during the 1500-1600’s. The sensations of intense heat and ebbing consciousness I had experienced at the heart of the town square were some sort of psychic imprint, an energy scar from those times.
Thinking about these two events, I developed a theory that traumatic events often leave a vivid imprint on the scene where they occurred. If we put on a disc of Elvis Presley, it will sound as if he is singing in the room with us. But that does not mean that he is present. In that same way, I think events, particularly traumatic events, can leave a ‘recording’which can be felt, heard, seen, or all of the above, by someone passing through that energy recording. Somehow the presence of a human consciousness trips the switch and the scenario unfolds again. It is not that the souls who suffered are trapped in their suffering, only that it has been recorded in a way that makes it seem current.
Other experiences I have had since that time ‘fit’ with this theory. But a shaman is a sort of scientist, and explorer, a spelunker into the human psyche and its interface with a mysterious world. If I get more information that conflicts with my theory, I’ll have to revise it again.